In Hong Kong, though, the version served at most Cantonese restaurants – from upmarket places to dai pai dong – contains dried salted fish. Many restaurants serve this bubbling in a clay pot ...

There are many types of salted fish. Some are bony and best used for soup stocks and sauces; others are moist and meaty, almost semi-dried, and when squeezed, your fingers will leave an indentation.

Out of necessity, our ancestors mastered the art of cooking dried cod or skate from the Baltic Sea. Alternatively, saltwater fish such as herring was matured in barrels with a lower solution of brine.

Here's how to make it. Rinse that dried fish to clear off any excess salt and unwanted bits. Soak it in warm water for 10-15 minutes to soften up, then drain it out. Toss the soaked fish in a pan and ...