An An steers clear of the Saigon-style pho that dominates Sydney, instead championing its cousin from Vietnam’s north.

Fat pork patties (gently grilled, tremendously juicy) come with a sweet-sour, fish-saucy broth, rice noodles and some of the perkiest leaves I’ve ever seen. Order the bun cha set to get two ...

But if you prefer a looser fit, stick with your usual size. I’ll be the first to tell you that I don’t have the perkiest of chests (fellow runner over here!). So, I usually stay away from ...