My alarm went off far too early, but I rose from bed and then ascended — in the dark, in a van on winding roads — Pico do Arieiro, one of Madeira’s highest peaks. I sat perched above a thick mass of ...

The guides track rare species, what’s changing and what’s disappearing even before you’ve learnt to recognise it. Check out what it takes to introduce an old world to new viewers. And happy spotting!