In cheap mortadella, Zivieri adds, its distinctive piggy smell is added chemically, ‘like a perfume’. I watch as the mixed meat and fat is squeezed into its casing, then deftly wrapped in twine.

Rovagnati produces various types of salumi, or Italian antipasto meat, including proscuitto, salami and mortadella. "Italian salumi is one of the foods that heavily represents Italian food culture ...